Windblown Clouds
EXCERPT NO. 10
Echo of the Inner Walls
Ed
and my trip into the heart of South India culminated on this
day when we were swept into a frenzied crowd.
A town appeared in the distance, over which loomed
an ancient stone temple with richly carved towers, darkened by age.
We entered the town and moved with the crowd through the winding streets
toward the center. The townspeople were adorned in their finest saris—bright
red and orange, pink and gold, and the purest white. Even the children
were decked out that day.
Everywhere flowers were for sale, huge bouquets and
garlands. Flower heads were stacked six feet high. Knots of bright color
set aflame women’s jet-black hair. Men wore garlands around their
bare brown necks. Even the cows had flowers in strings around their
horns, or braided into their tails. Doorways were strewn with the brightest
colors. People threw huge handfuls of flowers into the air, and the
flowers fell to the ground where thousands of bare feet trampled over
them. Petals stuck to sweaty flesh. Arms and legs were speckled with
color; even the crowns of those with shaved heads were transformed into
colorful patchworks.
An ever richer and denser stream of color was sweeping
us into its sphere. And we had no choice but to follow the flow; for
every alley by which we might have escaped was packed with more people
pressing forward to enter the mad flow. The crowd became tighter and
tighter, and we became submerged in the joyous crowd’s single
mind. Now we moved as a single body, a myriad of legs, arms, and shoulders.
A single life or spirit flowed through us, a frenzied, quivering anticipation.
The crowd strained forward toward a culmination, a consummation of what
brought us all together.
Streaming down the town’s main road, I jumped
up to see where we were going, but all I saw was a stream of people—identical
in its color, in its density, and in its mad frenzy—heading straight
towards us. Where the two streams of people met, I heard screams of
agony, and of joy. The heavy beat of drums shook the ground. The soaring
notes of flutes hovered in the air. The screams grew louder, babies
squealed and wailed. We were all treading that thin line between fear
and joy.
Though swept into the frenzy, I still feared I’d
stumble and fall, be trodden, and split apart. It was impossible to
tell whether we were moving headlong toward our deaths, or to a meeting
with God. All that was clear was that we were heading toward dissolution.
The drumbeats grew deafeningly loud. With each beat we drew closer,
both to our destination and to each other, for it was as if we were
single cells passing through a vein, nearing the heart. The valve of
the heart would open with a pound, the sound would echo off the inner
walls of the pulsating chamber, and we would have arrived, arrived at
the center, at the pulsing heart of South India.
Our stream merged with the other. A way opened. It
was a short side road at the end of which loomed the temple’s
main gate. Carved into the Temple’s ancient stone were numberless
gods and goddesses who stared down at us, their myriad arms and legs
frozen for all time, their faces in attitudes of bliss and despair.
There were gods making love with other gods, with men, and with beasts.
Gods dancing in ecstasy, blood dripping from their lips, garlands of
skulls hung round their necks. There were gods riding elephants, peacocks,
and rats, and other gods with the heads of elephants, monkeys, and beasts
unknown to mortal eyes. Every emotion, thought, and feeling of man had
been etched into the stones of the tower centuries ago by the hands
of men long forgotten—but still they spoke. They mirrored the
ecstasy that flowed through the throng, the ecstasy of being on the
edge of fear and joy, where everything is exaggerated, where the stream
of colors merge with the ocean of light, where each becomes lost not
only to his companions, but to himself, and is found again in the identity
with the whole of the rainbow, with the ocean, and with the gods on
the tower. For now the gods spoke. They waved their arms and flashed
their tongues and light came to their eyes. They laughed for all of
humanity’s happiness and cried for all the sorrows. They cried
for the beggars who lined the way to the temple. They cried for those
whose bodies disease had laid waste, whose faces pain had disfigured,
who stood by the side of the road with hands outstretched. And they
cried for the lepers who ripped open the wounds in their eroding limbs
and writhed on the ground with pain, who waved their bloody, festering
limbs and scratched at their faces to elicit both pity and horror. The
crowd showered these leprous beggars with coins. The gods took pity
too, and they cried. They cried for the lepers and they cried for those
showering coins. They cried for us all and for all the pain and sorrows
we’d have to endure. They cried, but they also laughed. They laughed
with the babies held tightly in their mother’s arms, who tried
to wriggle free in order to crawl over the top of the crowd and climb
the high tower to play with the baby gods. The gods laughed for all
the good harvests, the sunny days, the days of ease and prosperity,
and of marriage and birth. And they laughed too at the moment of death.
For they stood on their tower high above the turmoil and saw that the
world was spinning round and round and round again. They saw as in a
single moment the rise and fall of generations; they saw birth and death
and birth again, and they laughed over all of it, for it was all part
of the endless dance of creation. They laughed over the sick, the poor,
the homeless, and the ones racked with leprosy, for that too was life,
and all life was one. They laughed over all of it, and they cried too,
for all of life is pain and joy, suffering and health, birth and death.
The crowd lunged forward toward the gaping hole of
the tower’s gate, which was open wide to receive us. The drums
beat on my eardrums. Everyone screamed and groaned and pushed. People
pushed me forward, and I had no choice but to push forward the people
in front of me. Suddenly, a shower of bananas and oranges were thrown
in the air, and I turned to see the fruit hitting the sides of a huge
carriage. The carriage’s wooden wheels were twenty feet in diameter
and the canopy was forty feet off the ground. A god made of wood sat
in the carriage’s seat. It was wrapped in colorful cloths, its
face anointed with oil and ghee. The fruit hit the wooden wheels and
the sides of the carriage then fell to the ground. A line of priests
with sandalwood paste smeared across their faces and chests held onto
long, thick ropes and pulled the god’s carriage with all their
might. They cried out to the beat of the drum as they pulled the carriage.
Ho! Ho! Ho! The wheels creaked, and the carriage moved. A frenzied woman
rushed toward the carriage and tried to hurl herself beneath the wheels.
Then another and another followed suit. A line of burly attendants lifted
them off the ground, holding them back. Forces beyond the women’s
control had taken hold of them. They bit and screamed and tried repeatedly
to throw themselves beneath the wheels.
Now we were beneath the tower and it looked as if
the tower and all its gods would fall right on top of us. We were close
enough to receive the gods’ tears on our heads, their drools,
their drops of blood. A mile of humanity pushed us from behind, and
with a pounding of the drum we passed inside.

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